ya see, the word "STOKED" gets thrown around way to easily these days. kinda like a Canadian whore. not that i know that they're easy, but, i did have one say she stick around to eat footloops with me after. that conversation never got off the street.
anyhoo, "stoked", can only be pertained to a surfer. and, the only definition for "stoked", is when "a surfer is so excited about the surf he just had or is going to have, he is caught in bliss."
so, for like 6 weeks now, i have kinda lost the stoke. not cool. for most surfers the stoke is what keeps them alive. like a drug. a true surfer "whatever that is" will not act like the same person if the stoke is out of his body. i needed it back. desperately.
so, 2 days ago, i went surfing and the waves were acceptionally good. instead of surfing the standard board "like the ones you see kelly slater on" i paddled out a little foam board. not a tool...a toy. and holy shit. the stoked entered my body before i even got in the water. i was hootin and holla'n, and giggle'n like a little kid. i caught a bunch of waves and even got barreled on that lil'thang. super fun.
the stoke is back, and i'm glad it is. everything i engage in has a little more light on it now. like a satin finish.
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